Week One
Wednesday, June 7th
After nearly 43 years I am frothing with excitement to have finally returned to this tropical paradise, as I have soooo many memories from our family's time here (October 1978 to December 1980). I was an impressionable twelve year old to nearly fifteen, when we reluctantly returned to New Zealand for my 5th form year. It truly was a life-changing experience which I have never forgotten and I can't wait to take you all on my trip down memory lane.
NZ0998 landed half an hour late at 9pm in the dark, so I missed out on getting my first glimpse of the islands from the air. Strangely, Samoa is now on the same day as New Zealand and currently one hour ahead. When we arrived all those years ago in Western Samoa (as it was known then) we lost a day because we crossed the international dateline. However, American Samoa, a mere hop, skip and a jump away is still a day behind.
Faleolo international Airport was unrecognizable from the open air building and stone wall of old. In its place stood an impressive modern terminal. In 1978, incidentally my first ever flight (which was thrilling enough in itself), I distinctly remember that moment when I first set foot out of the plane. It was so bloody hot I thought the heat must be coming from the still running engine, it only hit me as we walked across the tarmac, that it was not. This time though, the air-bridge was all air conditioned comfort and even Customs was a breeze. I was out the door in less than thirty minutes where my host Pablo was patiently waiting.
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| Faleolo Airport - Then & Now |
It was hard to make things out in the dark but first impressions were that it is much more built up and that the roads are much improved. On the island of Upolu the speed limit is 56km on the open road and 36km in the villages. It took us a good hour to reach our final destination, Vaoala Heights Haven, high in the hills above Apia, on the Cross Island Road.
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| My accommodation at Vaoala Heights Haven |
https://www.facebook.com/VaoalaHeights/
Pablo was kind enough to take a detour through Apia itself. I was surprised to see that some landmarks remained the same, for example the Nelson library and town clock while others, like the markets have moved. It's all rather modern, there is even a McDonald's and roughly twenty sets of traffic lights, starting all the way out at Vaigaga by the Vailima Brewery.
Thursday, June 8th
By the time I unpacked last night, it was close to midnight when I turned out the lights. The temperature was quite pleasant. Thought I might be sweltering with the humidity but my room has a ceiling fan, which I actually had to turn off at dawn. I was woken by birdsong and was feeling a bit cold, with only a thin bed sheet. I managed to doze off again as it was quiet and peaceful but I later woke to a cracker thunderstorm.
It's meant to be the dry season at the moment but due to El Nina it has been rather wet, like New Zealand of late. All was grey and it was hard to make out the view but I caught glimpses of the sea through the low cloud, so I can't wait until it clears to see blue tropical waters.
After a breakfast of tea and toast, Pablo kindly took me into town to run a few errands like going to Vodafone to get a local SIM card then the local Fugalei market. At first glance there didn't appear to be a huge selection of fruit and vegetables, all i could see was waves of bananas and taro.
I trawled down the rows and managed to procure a bunch of beans, a carrot, 2 onions, 2 small papaya, 4 baby eggplant, a cucumber, a bag of cherry tomatoes and one of limes, 2 avocados, some banana chips and an unnamed vegetable - a cross between a cos lettuce and bok choy, which the vendor assured me could be eaten raw or cooked. It wasn't particularly cheap, I spent just under $100 tala (approx NZD$50). I baulked at the cost of cabbage, the equivalent of NZD$8 for a very small one,.
From there we headed out of town to the village of Levaula, about 15-20 minutes west of Apia. The Levaula College compound, where our family once lived is much changed. To start with the school now boasts a second storey and has been renamed Wesley College. Also the once beautiful fale that stood on the grounds has been enclosed.
As well they have constructed a covered concrete walkway all the way across the green from the road to the school. The bus shelter has also gone, as has our house, the neighbouring houses and the village fales behind. In its place is a new Methodist Technical & Creative Institute.
The Samoa Methodist Land Development scheme (SMLD) where dad once worked used to be across the road from the college compound where we lived. I could see a ramshackle building that was once dad's workshop. Dad's job was to train some local men to be motor mechanics and fix the church vehicles. The SMLD also had a coconut and cocoa plantation. With Dad's farming background he also offered advice, installed a generator and did the maintenance when they built a cow shed on the land to supply their dairy.
The dairy building was still there but has been converted into the Samoa Methodist Land Development store and is essentially a general store for the village selling cigarettes, biscuits and chips. No more of my favourite panikeke, pink milk or passionfruit ice-blocks.
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| SMLD - Then & Now |
There is also a massive stone wall that extends from Wesley College all the way down the road to the George Brown school (which was once a Junior High but is now a Primary) in Faleula, the next village. They have also built an impressive new Methodist Church of Samoa half-way between the two villages.
We continued our exploration and found Avoca, the church where our family used to worship on Sundays with Fa'atauva'a, the President of the Methodist Church, his wife Laga and family. I wonder how often they use it now that they have the new one down the road? And I wonder if the fancy new house on the grounds is still the Presidents residence? The large fale on the waters edge where we used to eat our Sunday too'nai (lunch) has also been enclosed.
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| Avoca - Then & Now |
We headed back into town via a wholesaler called 'Eat the Kiwi' in Vaigaga to collect some groceries then took the scenic route around the back, via Alafua and the Sliding Rocks. Pablo also took me past Aggie Grey's, which is now a Sheraton and has a Casino but sadly this has been closed since Covid. What a pity as it was such an iconic hotel. Our drive also took us past the port and the entrance to Palolo Deep, a marine reserve.
Nearby there is a (new) man-made island which houses the Tuameasina Resort, we went for a drive across the causeway to have a brief look at the complex before going for a cruise past Samoa College, my old school where I completed 3rd and 4th form. I am keen to go back and take a proper look one day soon.
From there we stopped at Myna's, a supermarket to grab some other ingredients for tea. Pablo's three bedroom, three bathroom apartment has a well-equipped kitchen so I volunteered to be on cooking duty - pasta with a tomato, eggplant and chorizo sauce, served with a side of beans.
We were joined for dinner by Celine, one of the family members of the property that Pablo is renting. Slightly older than me, she works as a legal secretary in town. She hails from a well-known Samoan family, name of Nelson. The town library is named for them and in my day they had a popular cafe where I used to hang out and drink Coca-Cola. It also had a small supermarket attached that stocked a lot of American products like Skippy Peanut Butter.
Another interesting fact about the property where I am staying is that it was once owned by Monty (rugby league player turned boxer) Betham's family. It is also home to four dogs (two of which are pups) and one black cat called Chai.
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| New furry friend - Chai |
Friday, June 9th
I had a leisurely morning seated out on the balcony. Finally I got to fulfill my passion for papaya with lime juice for breakfast. The sun was shining and I really appreciated the gorgeous view as I ate. Then a little later after salad and eggs for lunch I caught a local bus into town so I could go to the Tanoa Tusitala Hotel.
https://www.tanoahotels.com/tanoa-tusitala-hotel/
I waited half an hour before a bus finally stopped to pick me up. One had previously driven straight past. The cost into town was $2 tala and it took about 15 minutes. I love the old wooden buses (which give the buses in India a good run for their money with their outlandish decorations) but most of them these days, like the one I caught, was a boring modern 21 seater. However, it was nice and breezy with all the windows open and loud music blaring.
It was rather civilised compared to the old days when you had to climb over livestock and big baskets of taro to get to a seat, or if it was crowded you had to sit on a strangers lap. When we were here previously all the vehicles were left-hand drives and they drove on the right but in 2009 the government decreed that they would change to driving on the left. This meant that many of the buses had to change their door entrance, otherwise their passengers would be alighting into the middle of the road.
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| Buses - Then & Now |
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| (Tanoa) Tusitala Hotel Pool - Then & Now |
We had arranged to meet at the hotel once Kate had finished work. Her business is Futiafu Cleaning Services Samoa and she mainly services the residences of the diplomatic corp. She wanted to take me for a swim at a lagoon near Tuameasina, so I could meet up with some other locals who usually swim there in the afternoon most days.
https://www.facebook.com/futiafucleaning/
We parked outside the property of a woman called Vanya and her husband 'Yeti'. Vanya, a visual artist originally from NZ, met her Samoan husband at Canterbury University and has been in Samoa since 1976. Talk about a small world though, I just about fell over when she told me that her mother was Norma Jacobs, my old English teacher at Samoa College. Norma was also part of the music group that my mother was involved in.
https://www.samoa.travel/plan-book/activities/the-vanya-taulealo-gallery/
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| My Mum - G Nicholson on the piano |
Two other woman also showed up to swim. A Samoan poet/novelist/painter/playwright by the name of Sia Figiel, whose play 'O Tusitala - Tellers of Tales' just finished its run at the Galumoana Theatre. Her companion was a Scotswoman, Professor Emma Sutton from St Andrews University. Emma had commissioned Sia to write the play and is sponsoring her to perform at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival this year. Very cool. After the swim Kate drove me home.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sia_Figiel
As as I sat on the balcony drinking a gin contemplating my day there was a power cut. I could see lights on in town down below, so Pablo suggested we head out for dinner. We ended up at a burger joint called Phat Burger. I had a fish burger and sampled some of the local Taula beer.
https://www.facebook.com/p/Phat-Burger-100057372651262/
Pablo is a very interesting person. A fellow kiwi and retired marine biologist, he currently works for SPREP, a UN environmental initiative, teaching Pacific Nations how to deal with disasters such as oil spills. He usually resides in Canberra Australia, where his wife works at a prominent Girls school there. He has been involved in setting up marine reserves in Milford Sound/Fiordland, Great Barrier and Waiheke Islands plus he has done a short stint in Antarctica.
Jealous much, that is totally on my bucket list!
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| Pablo with his new Phat Burger cap |
Saturday, June 10th
What a magnificent morning, not a cloud in the sky. I enjoyed eating my papaya for breakfast on the balcony as I admired the view, which was spectacular. Unfortunately my back is feeling rather achey and sore. I can't quite figure out if my body is objecting to my spending too much time sitting out here writing in my journal or if the cause is the bed. There is a spare sponge mattress which I will use as a topper, so hopefully that might help.
Either way, I must find myself a yoga mat so I can resume my practice and/or get up earlier to walk before the heat of the day and the road becomes too dangerous with traffic. Pablo tells me that if I venture up the hill and around the corner there is a flat road to the right that travels along a ridge where some other expats live, so I will definitely check that out. Alternatively he has offered me use of his car, if I wish to drive down to walk along the waterfront before he starts work.
Pablo is currently on antibiotics for a chest infection, so it was a very quiet day for both of us as we rested from the days heat. Jenny had suggested that Pablo might like to join us for Paulie's 79th birthday celebration with an arrangement to meet at the Tanoa Tusitala at 5pm. The first thing I did on my arrival was to take a quick dip in the pool to cool off.
We were a jolly party of seven as we enjoyed cocktails at the hotel before walking down the road to Bistro Tatau for dinner. The restaurant is touted as one of the best in Apia. There were a number of fish dishes on offer on the menu but sadly they were unable to supply many due to shortages. Despite this, the place was busy and my meal was delicious. I had Japanese octopus balls to start followed by a salmon and prawn risotto with asparagus for my main.
The company was also interesting. Nick and Rowena run a life coach business called Minds Aligned. He was also one of the Australians attacked on the Black Cat track in Papua New Guinea, September 2013 that made international headlines. Sounds like he is very lucky to be alive. Rowena is English and super lovely.
https://www.mindsaligned.com.au/
Ingrid also has a background in the NZ film industry as a costume designer but now owns a cleaning business. Her younger daughter is Ursula Grace Williams, a Pasifika documentary filmmaker who made the short film 'King' which I saw at the NZIFF a few years ago.
A fellow Piscean, we fell into a spiritual conversation about the mole on my neck, which my brother has always referred to as the fly-spot or beauty spot that missed! She said it means that I am highly creative with a purpose in life and that I should be patient if things are not happening as quickly as I would like in some areas of my life. She also felt that I may have been Samoan in a previous life as I have a laid-back island easiness about me. She said I should have a Samoan name starting with M.
It’s strange, I have always felt an affinity to Samoa, particularly once I got over the culture shock of our very first day. From day two I was completely entranced. Coincidentally I once had a past life reading where I was told that I was the daughter of a village Matai (Chief) and was betrothed to the son of a neighbouring village chief, but there was another boy in my village who was in love with me. He murdered me because if he could not have me then no-one else would.
When I related that story to her, plus told her that my name Constance means firm of purpose and that Mary was my middle name, she proclaimed that I already had my Samoan name, that I am Mele.
The rest of the evening proved to be very pleasant with good conversation that flowed freely. There was also cake. By chance, Ingrid’s cousin, Mara Hunter, was dining in a private room with the Prime Minister, Fiame Naomi Mata’afa, her bodyguards were stationed outside. I think Mara may be a cousin to David Hunter, a boy that was in my year at Samoa College. We were pretty much the last ones to leave the restaurant. It was a lovely balmy evening as we walked back to the Tanoa Tusitala and said our good nights.
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| The Birthday Party |
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| The Birthday Boy |
Sunday, 11th June
Uh-oh - I was wondering how long it might take - it was inevitable that this would happen eventurally, but I had hoped it might be after three or four weeks and not four days. Did you guess yet? Yup, I woke up with the squirts. I hoped like hell that I would be able to keep my breakfast, toast with Marmite and avocado plus a piece of fruit (name unknown but the locals tell me it's like a peach), in.
Mainly because our group the night before had arranged to travel in convoy for a day trip to the South East corner of Upolu. What was originally going to be a day trip for Pablo and I to collect some coral sand for his work's open day for school students this coming Thursday turned into a full-scale expedition.
There was no room in Jenny's fridge for the left-over birthday cake last night so we had agreed to care for it overnight and bring it with us on our excursion, so we were on a mission to find paper plates and cups as well. This was especially challenging because practically everything is closed on Sunday's. Which makes it a perfect time to travel because most islanders are at church or preparing their lunchtime feast. Luckily we found one shop open that supplied our needs.
After meeting at the Tanoa Tusitala Hotel we found an open garage as we also needed gas and ice, for the gin and tonics but more importantly to preserve the cake. Then we were off over the Cross Island Rd. So far so good with my bowels! On a side note. petrol is extremely cheap here, $3.40 tala per litre (do the math!). We are seriously being ripped off in New Zealand when it comes to fuel.
It was a stunning drive and we were in luck as the forecast rain held off. I noted the location of the new Bahai temple and Tiapapata Art Center, which I will visit next weekend as they will be holding a Vegan festival there. But I digress, I'd forgotten how large and lush the island was, with its primordial landscape. Full of palms and ferns, there is tons of similarity to our temperate rainforest in New Zealand.
The week before I arrived, the country held it's 61st Independence celebrations, so many of the small villages we travelled through were immaculately clean, freshly painted and proudly displayed their flags.
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| Local villages |
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| To Sua Trench |
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| Aleipata Island - Then & Now |
We pulled up at Anita's restaurant at the Taufua Beach Fale's. It was all very civilized we paid $50 tala to park one vehicle at a beach fale while the other car could park for free across the road next to the ablution block, which had clean toilets and showers for us to change in. I placed my lunch order, Oka (raw fish salad) and a niu coconut, then ducked out to put on my bathers and have a quick dip before I ate.
Coincidentally Ingrid's elder daughter Lucy McLay (also a costumer designer in the NZ film industry) was in Samoa too. She had been invited to a wedding in this exact village last night, for the Bracewell family from Great Barrier Island. Talk about two degress of separation. Lucy was out but her god-daughter and child were around, so they joined us for lunch.
The oka was delicious - my first since arriving. According to Pablo we should be vigilant these days and only eat fish from outside the reef, example pelagic free ocean swimmers like Asiasi (Tuna), Masimasi (Dophinfish) or Albacore. Some species like barracuda contain ciguatera, essentially neuro-toxins that can make you blind, seriously ill or kill you. According to suppliers of the local fish market, with the unusual weather patterns and rain of late there has been a shortage of fish.
I really noticed this when I went snorkeling after lunch. There was a lot of seagrass and dead coral and I saw maybe half a dozen species of fish but they were quite small and swimming alone, not in large schools. I didn't see any sea cucumbers or anything mildly exotic like a crown of thorns either, which was a bit of a shame. Despite the lens prescription in my goggles being a couple of scripts old, I could see quite clearly but the waves were quite strong and I wished for flippers so I could have gone further afield.
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| Lalomanu Beach |
After some refreshments of gin and birthday cake, which was decidedly looking the worse for wear after its trip in the hot car, we reluctantly made our way back to Apia. We followed the coast road back via Piula. It was too late to go in but I will definitely come back to swim in the fresh water cave pool soon.
The Methodist Theological College compound at Piula has expanded considerably. We used to visit this place a lot as the generator there kept breaking down and Dad had to return numerous times to fix it. Like Levaula and Faleula, it now has a massive uninviting fence around the complex. As Pablo keeps saying, God only comes to big houses that are safe, especially since 9/11.
Monday, 12th June
Dang, I'm still s******* through the eye of a needle. Maybe I will need to stop eating papaya and cleaning my teeth with the tap water. It's not helping that I am feeling hot, bothered and headachey. It looks like we are in for another humid day.
I spent the morning on the deck, journalling and catching up on correspondence with my editor of the little short film, 'Ghosted', that I made with ten students from Kaitoke School on Great Barrier Island last year. Speaking of GBI, I have had news that two young boys have been critically injured in the collapse of a sand dune on Medlands Beach. My thoughts and prayers are with the concerned families, I hope they pull through.
Despite my dodgy guts I was feeling relatively ok until I ate lunch then I deteriorated and needed to lie down. I read for awhile but I was restless. I had offered to cook dinner this evening so needed some groceries plus Pablo also had a small shopping list, so he offered me the use of his car and I went out for supplies..
It was the first time I have officially driven on the roads in Samoa. I did drive in Samoa all those years ago in our pickup truck, but only around the college compound. My first stop was SAAB, a large department store where I found a yoga mat for $35 tala. My next stop was the markets where I purchased a lava lava, although they call them sarongs here now.
Across the road at Frankie's Supermarket I looked for chicken but the smell of urine in their chiller room was intense, so don't think I'll be going back there again in a hurry! I then tried the Apia Supermarket which was small and clean but alas they had no chicken. I had success at Lynn's Supermarket.
By this stage it was after 5pm. I had considered going for a swim at the lagoon this afternoon but I was feeling pretty wiped out so headed back up the hill instead. The Vietnamese chicken curry with rice for dinner was delicious but I collapsed into bed shortly after and read until lights out.
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| Misty Mountains |
Tuesday, 13th June
Ugh, I'm still being plagued by my stomach issue and it's beginning to wear me down.
Today we were supposed to travel in convoy again with Jenny, Paulie and Ingrid out to the south coast and western point of the island. Nick and Rowena were going to do their own thing. Unfortunately, Jenny also woke with a funny tummy this morning so the days excursion was cancelled, which was probably just as well because I still wasn't 100%.
A little before lunchtime Pablo had some errands to run and asked if I'd like to accompany him into town. I accepted as I wanted to go back to Vodafone because I was unable to text any international numbers. Plus I needed to exchange some money, having burnt through my two week budget in one week already - Yikes!
I got a much better deal on the exchange rate from Western Union than I did at the Auckland Airport. And it turns out that the Vodafone plan I chose does not have international texting so that explains that. Pablo had dropped me off to do his errands and then the heavens opened.
We arranged to meet at the Milani Caffe. So once the rain stopped I ventured into a few stores to check out the island dresses (they have tailors here so I might get one made especially for me). before making my way to the cafe owned by Dora Rossi. She is sister to Giovanni, who owns Paddles where we are going for dinner tonight.
Pablo was already consuming a club sandwich and berry smoothie by the time I arrived. As I wasn't particularly hungry I ordered a small piece of carrot cake, which was delicious accommpanied by a niu coconut (good electrolyte for my tummy).
https://www.samoa.travel/plan-book/activities/milani-caffe-samoa/
After lunch we stopped at the Pickled Lam, a popular deli. I met one of the owners Joe Lam, cousin to Patrick Lam (rugby player & coach). He is also a Samoa College old boy who moved to Nelson, NZ of all places. Pablo picked up some salami and I purchased some beetroot chutney and chia seeds. Last stop was Lynn's supermarket for some Almond/Coconut Milk, cherry tomatoes and a baguette.
https://www.pickledlamscalinis.com/
I finally made the decision that I would write a weekly blog so I worked on these entries until it was time to go to Paddles for dinner, where we were joined by Jenny, Paulie, Ingrid, Nick and Rowena.
Located on the Port Rd across from the waterfront, the place was packed to the rafters and humming. No wonder we needed a reservation. The food was divine, Nick claimed the gnocchi was the best he had ever eaten. I had calamari for entree followed by a Marinara for main. The portions were huge so I took a doggie bag home as my guts were not happy.
https://www.samoa.travel/plan-book/activities/paddles-restaurant/
We met Papa and Mama Rossi, he is Italian and she is Samoan. Would you believe that they once lived and worked in Taihape for many years before returning to her beloved Samoa. Papa makes all their pasta and gnocchi daily, not bad for a gent in his early eighties. Their son, Giovanni was very flamboyant as he presented three separate tables with birthday cakes and singing. Paulie continued his birthday celebration with tiramisu before we called it a night.
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| Dinner at Paddles |
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| Mama & Papa Rossi |
I forgot to mention that Pablo had thoughtfully picked up a Samoa tourist magazine and map of the island for me, from which I learnt something new. Migratory patterns suggest that the Samoans travelled from SE Asia some 3000 years ago. Also Tonga once ruled over the Samoan province between 950 - 1250 AD, until a final battle saw the Samoan's overthrow their oppressor. In retreat the Tongan's made a vow only to return in peace and they have since honoured their word.
The word Samoa also comes from two Polynesian words, "Sa" which means Sacred and "Moa" which means Centre. Samoa is also known as the Sacred Heart of the Pacific. Think I have just found the name for this blog!
I also can't believe that I have been here a week already, seven to go. It almost feels like I never left as its a bit same, same but different. I trust you have enjoyed the read, so please share with your friends and tune in for the next instalment in a week.
onepurplefish
PS Some photo credits belong to Ingrid Hartmann, Jenny Bennett & Nick Bennett. It's been a blast hanging out.
PPS In the meantime I will leave you with a couple of recent quotes that I have added to my collection.
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